Purpura haemastoma y Rocher murex

1) Prof. Dra. Alfaro Giner, Carmen: Universidad de Valencia (Dpt. of Ancient History (University of Valencia).

 Proposed activity:

Like Co-organizer of the Valencia’s University I will to control and supervise the general works of my colleagues, planning the Meetings and Symposia and do my own research about textiles, colour, trade, woman and textiles and experimentation.

2) Prof. Dra. La Bandera, María Luisa: Universidad de Sevilla (Dpt. of Archaeology, University of Seville.

Proposed activity:

Study Group 1 (Elements of Costume) I will develop a study of the elements of the costume in the Iberian Cultures.We are going to study:

• Complete dresses for men and women and other elements that were used by Iberians in daily live and in other specifics moments like war, death, sacred celebrations, etc.
• Complements like fibulae, jewellery, shoes, bonnets, etc., in close relationship with clothing, will be studied as well.

Study Group 5 (Exhibition)

• We can search precious objects concerning Clothing and Identities in the Archaeological Museums of Andalusia.
• We are in contact with the Dama de Baza dress reconstruction Project, organise by Prof. C. Alfaro and Ida Demmant and Anne Batzer of the Lejre Experimental Centre of Textiles Research (DK).

3) Prof. Dr. Fernández Nieto, Francisco Javier: Universidad de Valencia (Dto. Ancient History. University of Valencia).

Proposed activity:

D: Clothing and Cults:Study of relationship between costume and religion at Roman age.We are going to study dresses (A) and other textile elements (B) that were used by Romans in all kind of religious acts and rites. These are the themes we pretend to treaty. A) 1. Male and female clothes at priesthoods (priestly collegia, sodalitates), Clothes at public and private religious acts (sacrifices, offerings, processions, supplicationes, choruses, sacred symposia, etc.), 3. Clothes at familiar devotion, and 4. Clothes at foreign cults in Rome (Greek, Oriental, Provincial people). B) We are going to study also all textile pieces and ornaments applied to Roman religious ceremonies: 1. Those used in sacred ambits (altars, temples, pulvinaria, etc.). 2. Those that can serve to adorn sacrificial victims.

So much in the first case (A: dresses) as in the second (B: textile pieces and ornaments) we are going to analyze their origin, forms, composing materials, colours, ornamental motifs and other prescribed requirements at religious rules.

4) Prof. Dra. García Gelabert, María Paz: Universidad de Valencia (Dto. Ancient History. University of Valencia).

Proposed activity:

With the Study Group 5 Exhibition.

Specifically my work area will be some important Museums of Madrid: Archaeological National Museum (MAN), Lázaro Galdiano, Fine Arts, MunicipalMuseum, Academy of History. This management is going to be extended to Museums of the same characteristics in Valencia, and Andalusia. I hope to be in coordination with members of the Study Group that handles the preparation of the Exhibition.

With the Study Group D: Clothing and Cults I will study the astral representations in Roman and Celtic Times. Religious iconography in the Iberian, Celtic and Roman civilisations.

5) Dr. García Sánchez, Manel: University of Barcelona. Prof. of Filosofía en el Instituto de Enseñanza Secundaria de Terrassa IES Montserrat Roig (Barcelona).

Proposed activity:

My great interest comes into Greek and Latin literary sources about dress and identities in Persian or Parthian barbarians. The interaction between the two great Empires (Persian and Roman) worked on the assessment of the Persian otherness from an ethnographic and moral point of view, mixing true knowledge of the enemy across the frontier. It is in this process of building the identity in the Greek-roman world where the dress becomes a treat of identity and otherness too.

Finally, in the field of religion and caused by the blooming of Eastern worships, such as Mithraism and the Magi, dress and colours also became an identity treat, with Mithra dressed in the Asian way, in Persian trousers, star-spangled cloak andPhrygian cap, and all the symbolism of colours which we can also interpret from the Mithraeums’ iconography.

6) Martínez García, María Julia: Universidad de Valencia (Dto. Ancient History. University of Valencia).

Proposed activity:

I will develop historical research concerning methods of dyes elaboration in Antiquity (technical and economical aspects). In this moment I’m studying write sources and bibliography related to the topic. After them, I will compare these data with those obtained through analyses of old fabrics (in connexion with the KIRKIRPA Research Institution). Also I will tray to search, inside some Museums, textiles samples conserving colour with sure analytical results.

All this studies are a part of my PHD personal research project. I presented the first part of it at the end of June 2008.

7) Cabrera, Carlos A.: Universidad de Valencia (Dto. Ancient History. University of Valencia).

Avda. Blasco Ibáñez 28, (46010) Valencia.

carca4@alumni.uv.es Tel: 0034 – 96 386 4359/Mobil: 653 049 672

Doctoral Thesis: Women, clothing and identities in the Roman Comedies.

8) Costa Ribas, Benjamín: Museo Arqueológico de Ibiza y Formentera.

Apart the continuity of our diggings in different places of the PitiusasIslands, a general search and review of the new bibliographical and contact with other colleagues working on the same matter will be established. We shall also take very much account of the written and epigraphic sources which, although scarce, are basic to understand the production of purple dye, its trade, its economic importance, and the social situation of those workers specialised in the fishing of muricidae (murileguli, conchylioleguli), or in the production and trade of the elaborated dye (purpurarius).

The review of the wide collections of terracotta figurines which are kept in the Archaeological Museum of Ibiza and Formentera, could be very helpful for the Exhibition.

9) Baltar Veloso, Ramón: Universidad de Santiago de Compostela

News Collaborators and his participation in the Project

10) Cabrera, Ana: Museo de Artes Decorativas de Madrid, especialista en textiles coptos.

Proposed activity:

I will in charge of location and study of ancient textiles from the Spanish public collections. Also I will contact with the lenders explaining the exhibition project for 2011, in order to determine in advance conditions of loan and display. The textiles will come from Madrid, Valencia and Cataluña Musems and chronology span from Roman to Late Antiquity. The textiles selected will be related with dresses and others garments, but also furnishing textiles.

11) Dr. Albaladejo, Manuel (Project Manager): Universidad de Valencia (Dto. Ancient History. University of Valencia), especialista en relaciones India – Imperio Romano.

Proposed activity:

My research focused in the last years on the image given by Greek literature about India. In this moment I intend to focus in all clear connection between Occident and India, that is, the commercial, political, religious and diplomatic relationships between those lands. The “silk trade route” and the Monsoon winds provided for a continuous relationship between the Roman Empire and Eastern Asia.

The knowledge of the written sources, literary and epigraphic (such as the Asoka’s edict and the inscriptions of north-western India and Bactria), is essential. In the present project it will be necessary to compare these written sources with the new archaeological data. It is also important to bear in mind the growing importance of the numismatic founding in Southern India and Sri Lanka. I would like to point out my knowledge of the bibliography used in the project, as I was able to locate and study the bulk of it during the writing of my doctoral thesis and my postdoctoral stay at the Albert-Ludwigs Universität in Freiburg, Germany.

12) Prof. Dr. González Villaescusa, Ricardo: Université de Reims – Champagne Ardenne UFR Lettres et Sciences Humaines Département d´Histoire

Proposed activity:

Textile production in Galia Bélgica

We want to identify, in the archaeological registry, the markers that put in evidence the productive phases of the textile in the Gallia Belgica. We want to do special attention to production to transformation, from the raising of the animals to the end product; we try to define the role played by the rural units of production and the urban textile crafts in these RomanProvince. Our work aim to discover the real power of the economical activities of the land of Langres-Andemantunnum (animal, sheared).

The archaeological remains of the city of Rheims (spun, woven and dyed activities), seems to conceal a nigh level of textile production, including transformation of row materials and trade. From gaulish iron-age to the presence of a procurator gynecei mentioned in the Notitia Dignitatum we can follow a great development of textile production. Concerning colour, write sources help us with the presence, at Imperial time, of a negotiator purpurarius. This last question can be interesting in our collaboration with the colleagues working in Ibiza purple production.

13) Prof. Dr. Molina, José Antonio: Departamento Área Historia Antigua, Universidad de Murcia.

Proposed activity:

Clothes have a symbolic interpretation in Late Antiquity too. We have to highlight the uses of red in order to picture Christ’s clothes, which mean a symbol of Eucharist. On the other hand, using purpur is an allusion to the Iesus as Lord, like the emperor is the Lord of earth. During Late Antiquity representations of emperor allude to the eternal kingdom and power of God.

The exegetic tradition of scholars and church writers in Late Antiquity explained every mention in the Bible to clothes and its colours in connection to the own history of Christ. For example, the history of Joseph and his brothers, where the bloody robe is a symbol of the Christ’s holy tunic. This blood alludes to the Passion of the Christ. We can speak here about a true theory of colours and clothes in Late Antiquity.

A) Temporal Collaborators

• Prof. Dr. Antonio Melero, Facultad de Filología, Dep. de Filología Clásica, Universidad de Valencia (University of Valencia).

Prof. Melero will collaborate only with a text about the Idea of Identity between the Greeks: a study on literary sources.

• Prof. Dr. Requena, Miguel: Universidad de Valencia (Dto. Ancient History. University of Valencia).

  Colour and symbol in religion.

• Marie Noël Vacher, “Taller Textil de Triste” (Huesca).

Mss. Vacher is a very good teacher about textile and dyes technique, today and in Ancient times. His collaboration with the Project will be focus on some workshops to be developed in the “Taller Textil de Triste (Huesca)”. In this moment we are organize he first one for next August (6th to 9th).

• Ana Roquero, Master in Dyes (South America) Madrid.

  Mss. Roquero is a very good teacher about pre-Columbian technology in dyes. She can give us a very accurate study about ethnographical and historical knowledge between pre-Columbian Peru and Ancient roman times. His collaboration with the Project will be focus on some workshops to be developed in his private Atelier in Madrid.

B) Sub-Project of “Advanced Students collaborating in DressID Project”

Concerning a Research Program to create a General Database with the possible sections:

a. The study of the different Instrumenta textilia,

b. Dying plants in Iberian and Celtibarian territory,

c. Textile remains, sculptures, ceramics, and other elements useful for the final Exhibition.

Concerning this Sub-project, thirty students are working in the storage rooms of a big number of Museums. All these Museums will give support to our work; especially to deal with the civil services to obtain the exhibition licenses. These connections will be very useful in the future.

The database we are aiming to create could be useful for the Study Groups 2: Production and Trade, 4: Colour and Dating, and 5: Exhibition.

Advanced Students and Collaborators Museums

1) Archaeological Museum of Alzira (Valencia).

Director: Agustín Ferrer

Students

-Rincón Orozco, Manuel

-Botella Navarro, Vicente

-Mulinas Pastor, Leonardo

2) Archaeological Museum of Lliria (Valencia).

Director: Dr. Vicent Escrivá

Students

- Campos Lloria, Pilar

-Gómez Andujar, Ernesto

-Cariñena Valero, Patricia

3) Archaeological Museumof Xàtiva. (Valencia)

Director: Mariano González Baldovi

Students

- Pomares Valle, Guillermo

- Osca Perdiguer, David Miguel

- Rubio Mocholí, Mireya

4) Archaeological Museum of Ontinyent i de la Vall d’Albaida. (Valencia)

Director: Agutí Rivera

Student

- Ruiz Soler, Javier

5) Archaeological Museum of Alicante (MARQ). Director:

Dr. Manuel Olcina

Student

- Graf, Raffael

6) Museo Monográfico de La Alcudia, Elche (Alicante). Director:

Dr. Alejandro Ramos

Students:

- López Gonzalo, Cristina

- Rosa García, José Manuel

7) Prehistorical and Archaeological Museum of Valencia (SIP):

Director: Dr. Helena Bonet

Students:

- Benaven Bella, María

- Mulinas Pastor, Leopoldo

8) Museo Provincial, Teruel

Director: Dr. Carmen Escriche

Students:

- Barnés Fabra, Diego

- Martínez Pardo, Norberto

- Castillo Lorenzo, Jose Manuel

9) Museo Provincial de Zaragoza

Director. Dr. Miguel Beltrán

Students:

- Ferrer Calderer, Asunción

- Conesa Saez, Pablo

10) Archaeological Museum of Denia (Alicante)

Director: Josep Gisbert

Student:

- Hernández García, Daniel

11) Archaeological Museum of Sagunto (Valencia).

Director: Emilia Hernández

Students:

- Sánchez Orón, Francisco

- Martí Landete, Javier

- Saiz Sanchez, Ventura

12) Spanish students (PHD) participants in SEMA

WOMEN AND CLOTHING: ASPECTS OF FEMALE IDENTITY IN THE ROMAN EMPIRE AND ITS PROVINCES (SEMA XI, 7-9 April 2008) SEMA's Programme